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frequently asked questions

We are competitively priced, a lot simpler to use and with product consistency. Contact us if you would like to test a few sheets out.

Not at all! Our papers go onto a range of garments such as: Cotton, polyester, nylon, polycotton blend, leather and more.
Ideally yes as this give you the best colour reproduction, toners savings and profiles but you can still get a fairly good result just printing through the Oki Driver – it’s just going to cost you more, you won’t have the option to rasterise, the colours won’t be as sharp and you may find that you have a white key line around your artwork.
You either have the temperate or pressure too high – try turning down the pressure a full turn and making sure the temperature is set at 150°c
You need more pressure – try turning the pressure up a full turn. OR the transfer is cooling down too quickly - Ensure you are keeping the transfer on the heat press bed at all times. NB: DO NOT USE A TEFLON SHEET
Make sure you’re not “hot-peeling” when taking the garment and transfer off the press OR the transfer hasn’t been left to go completely cold OR you are not using the “roll technique” when peeling off the A-foil. Take a look at our tutorial video for how to do this.
You need to print on the matt side of the paper. With our Laser dark you need to print through your printer’s multi-purpose tray; so your paper should face matt side up.
No, some of our papers, including the Flex Soft (no-cut) you can use with most CMYK laser printers. Our Forever Transfer Paper brochure has a handy guide on which papers are compatible with CMYK printers.
We have some great starter packs for both A3 and A4 printers which give you a chance to test a range of our papers before you buy. A lot of our papers you can buy in quantities of 25, 50 and 100. Let us know the make and model of your printer and we can give you the optimum settings to use.
You can use the Matt Finish sheets until the become discoloured by the heat or they become creased. As you don’t want the crease transferring to your finished print.
The Gloss finish sheets crease quicker than the Matt Finishing sheets, so we advise keeping it flat and safe in the box provided once used.
No design software is needed as in our Transfer RIP you have the Layout tool which enables you to lay out your page with multiple images. To use the TransferRIP you will need one of the following file types - EPS, PSD, PDF, TIFF, PNG, JPG
The Transfer Rip is PC based only but you can use Mac running windows / parallels
The majority of our papers come in 25, 50 and 100 sheets.
We are happy to support any customer that has purchased transfer paper from ourselves.
On your printers LED screen, using the down arrow, scroll to Configuration > System > Serial number. Or on the back below the USB and network connection.
This is usually down to a blemish on your heat press bed or heat platen. Makes sure there are no marks or dents as this will lead to inconsistent results.
We recommend presses that have an even pressure and temperature as this is vital when using the Forever papers. If you are unsure, please get in contact and we can send a few samples for you to test.
As you need even pressure to ensure a good transfer you would need to make sure your press plate is unblemished. Minor ink stains won’t make a difference, but any raised areas will need to be cleaned.

Price is usually reflective of quality, so we wouldn’t recommend cheap presses. The main thing you need to look for is even temperature (across the bed) and good even pressure. We have a range of presses that we have tested with the Forever paper on our Heat Press product page.

This is happening because the glue sheet is spilling out from the edges of the A foil – so we recommend sandwich your transfer in between protection sheets to avoid glue residue on your press. Please note this cannot be a Teflon sheet.
Simply unlock the toners by using the blue tabs. Then carefully remove the toners.
This usually happens when paper has been put through on the wrong media setting. To clean the fuser unit simply print a full stop in the middle of some normal copy paper. Run about 10 sheets. You may need to repeat this a few times.
As the Oki white toner doesn’t have a black toner you can never print a “true black” but we can get close with a “process black” to do this simply make sure your CMYK values are all at 100%. This may not look the blackest black on screen but this will give you the best black once printed. If you image is a single colour you could also use black Flex Soft – this way the colour comes from the paper not the printer.
Start off with what you believe to be medium pressure. If they glue sheet doesn’t transfer fully over to the A foil then you need slightly higher pressure. But if you are getting glue residue on you’re A foil where they shouldn’t be then you will need to lower your pressure.
Always use the multi-purpose trays, which are located on the front and back of the printer, when using our paper. So there is no bending of the paper.
If your substrate is either white or natural coloured, you won’t need the White Toner Printer BUT if you are looking to print onto dark substrates then you would need an Oki White Toner Printer.
No heat is needed for this product which makes it ideal for substrate such as candles. All you will need is a bowl of water.
The Forever Waterslide paper is perfect for Heat sensitive items such as candles, but should only be used on decorative items as the waterslide can’t hold up to normal wear and tear.
Yes you can use the B paper with any of our 2 paper system transfers. I.e Flex soft or Laser Dark no cut.
When printing onto 100% Polyester you will need to lower the temperate to 120°c – 130°c when pressing your transfer onto the garment. If you are printing onto a blend fabric we recommend setting your press at 140°c.
Yes Laser Dark can be transferred onto a wide range of substrates including – Cotton, Polyester, Nylon, Leather, Paper/card, Book covers, blend fabrics, Denim to name a few.
Make sure you are keeping the transfer flat against the heat press bed and are peeling in a low & slow motion diagonally across the page. On an A4 sheet this should take approx. 8 seconds and for an A3 sheet 12 seconds.
Yes you can use our Glossy Finishing sheets to keep some of that shine!
Ideally a swing away press is best for Forever papers but you still can use a clam press. We recommend upping the temperature to 160°c and giving the base a 5 second pre-press before starting your transfers.
For optimum results you should store the paper in a sealed bag (comes with paper when ordered) in the box it arrives in.
As every piece of artwork is different it’s hard to say how much ink you are using. But with the Forever Transfer RIP there is a cost calculation button so you are able to see how much your page is costing you!
As the Forever transfer paper is sensitive to heat you cannot use a Teflon sheet as this alters the temperature.
This usually means that either the printer is not on a level desk or the paper is being fed in at an angle causing the edges to gather ink.
Yes our paper can be cut down if you have a guillotine handy!
This can happen if the transfer has cooled down too quickly. Make sure you are peeling on the bed so the transfer stays hot. This should take around 12 seconds to peel if you are using A3.
Yes. Laser Dark (no-cut) can go onto polyester, we recommend increasing the white coverage to 190% in the Transfer RIP. Then when you are transferring onto the garment lower your press to 130°c. This will stop the dye migration that can occur when pressing to polyester.
Softshell is difficult to print due to the garment bleeding from the dye. Some manufactures have a printable Softshell for which you’d use the Polyester heat pressing instructions.
If your transfer is not coming away cleanly from the garment it may be that it isn’t cool enough, it needs to be stone cold before you peel away the backing. Also, make sure you are rolling off the garment, not pulling up away from the shirt.
The A foil is coated with a substance which if you’re not careful can be scratched off. Try to handle the A foil with care to avoid scratches.
Ideally, Laser Dark (no-cut) is used for detailed and intricate artwork and logos. But if your image is ink heavy then we would recommend increasing the A to B transfer time by another 30 seconds.

If you’re getting some misalignment it may be because the printer isn’t on a level surface, the toners are sitting incorrectly – simply take the toner and drums out and re-insert.

If this still isn’t working the to realign click Menu on your printer LED screen, then Print Settings, Registration, Adjust and then repeat until registered.

In the Forever Transfer RIP simply change the Input Tray to Automatic Tray Detection and you won’t need to press the Online button
You may have the wrong paper setting for the media you are using. Make sure your Media setting is correct for the paper you’re using. Please also make sure you’re using the Multi-purpose trays.
You need to first apply black toner to the substrate you wish to print to – so take your Laser Dark (no-cut) print your design in black apply the B paper, apply to the t shirt, cover with HSF and leave to cool and then peel. We have a video tutorial which you may find helpful when printing with the HSF.
We recommend printing black on the metallic and matt sheets (excluding White & yellow) and printing white on the Neon sheets (plus the Matt White & Yellow). If you do not have access to an Oki white printer you can also print black on all our Flex Soft (no-cut) papers.
You need to print on the matt side of the paper. With our Flex soft you need to print through your printer’s multi-purpose tray; so your paper should face matt side up.
This can be down to a number of issues. It could be that the pressure isn’t high enough – with Laser Light you need a high pressure to ensure good results. We also recommend a pre-press of 10 seconds at a high pressure to make sure all the fibres are completely flat.
This is usually because the transfer has become too cold. If possible feed the t-shirt over the press so less cold air flows between the bed and the transfer.
The white toner helps the image transfer over easily to the t-shirt. If you don’t have a white toner printer you will need to use the Forever Laser Transparent paper for CMYK printers.
No, you can use Laser Light (no cut) on any pale t-shirt, such as marl grey, lemon yellows etc.
Laser Light (no cut) is a 1 step paper so it quicker to use than Laser Dark (no cut) and is also cheaper – saving you money!
Technically you can fix these 2 papers together but as they have a different feel when finished we recommend sticking to 1 to keep the continuity. They also have different pressing temperatures so would take up your time to raise and lower the temperature.
No, our Laser Light (no cut) paper only transfers the ink giving your garment a premium feel compared to standard Laser Transfer papers.
Pre-press your t-shirt at a heavy pressure for 5 seconds, lay your design onto your t-shirt and press at 190°c for 15 seconds at a heavy pressure. Once the 15 seconds are up rub your transfer for 10 seconds with a scrap t-shirt or cloth, wait for 10 seconds and peel. Then cure your t-shirt with a sheet of matt finishing paper for 30 seconds.
This is usually down to the wrong media setting. Double check you are using the correct settings for your printer.
Firstly you would need to make sure your mugs are toner-receptive. Please contact us if you need advice on where to purchase. If you would like to print full colour images/logos onto your mug then you would need the Multi-trans printed with an Oki white toner printer. If you would like to print silver or gold you would need the Multi-trans Metallic printed with either your Oki White toner or most Toner Laser printers.
Yes both do print silver & gold but Multi-trans Metallic is for ceramics, slate and metal. Whereas the Multi-trans Select is for Paper and card applications.
We recommend toner receptive mugs/items as these have a special coating different to sublimation coating.
Swing-away presses are better suited to our papers, but you still can use a clam press – you may just need slightly higher pressure as the pressure will be coming from the back of the press not above. Please be aware if your product is thick – wood etc then you will need a swing or swing/draw press.
You need to set your cutting pressure slightly deeper.
No. All Heat Transfer Vinyl have different a different thickness. To be able to weed your design you need to use the optimise the cutting force.
No – all fabrics are different as are the Heat Transfer Vinyl’s themselves.
All depends how much work you are doing and what you are cutting. i.e. if I am cutting Reflective media then personally I would hold a separate blade just for this.
Most of the heat transfer vinyl’s have a Matt side and Shiny side. You need to cut into the Matt side and reverse as this is the adhesive side.
This is a preference thing. If you have a large print run, it will be much quicker to get the job out the door having a 4 second hot peel vinyl (Flexcut X4)
Checking that your blade and cutting strip is kept in good condition would be advantageous.
Dye sublimation can be an issue for most Football shirts. You need a Heat Transfer vinyl that has a block out layer and heat presses at a lower temperature. Our Maxxflex Subliblock II does this perfectly.
It is very likely that you garment has been washed too hot or it has been tumble dried when it shouldn’t be.

a. Please check that the E-Stop button is not engaged by twisting it to the right

b. Please check that the ethernet connection is plugged into the Machine & the

a. Check that your bobbin tension is set between 250-300 using the tension gauge

b. Check the acti-feed lower limit setting is not set too high or low Default is 4pts

c. Check the retaining finger is set in the correct position using the Help guides in the downloads section

d. If it is a new design make sure the tie in and tie off settings are set correctly.

e. Check that the presser foot is set correctly to the fabric

f. Inspect the drive wheels for thread or grooves make sure they are clean and move freely

g. Change any old needles and make sure they are installed correctly.

h. Run a test design to see if the customer design is causing the issue.

i. Check for sharp areas around the hook and needle plate especially if there has been a recent needle break

j. Check the hook timing

a. Check the thread path and make sure the thread is around the thread break bar

b. Check that the bobbin tension is set correctly

c. Check the acti-feed lower limit setting is not set too high Default is 4pts

a. Check the bobbin tension is not too loose

b. Make sure the hoop is tight enough to secure the fabric

c. If the material is thin & or stretchy use some heavy weight cut away backing to stabilise the garment

d. When hooping do not stretch the fabric in the frame

e. Check that the design is not too dense, too many stitches in a particular area will cause puckering

a. Check the design for tie in and tie off stitches

b. Make sure the bobbin tension is set correctly

c. Check the retaining finger is set correctly

d. Change the trimming knife

e. Check that the trimmers are setup correctly (Contact a Technician if unsure)

a. Old needles have a bigger chance of breaking so change them on a regular basis

b. Install a larger needle for thicker more dense garments like caps or bags

c. Check the design for very dense areas

d. Make sure the machine is trimming, missed trims can cause the needles to break in certain circumstances.

a. Check that the needles are installed correctly

b. Check the bobbin tension and condition of the bobbin case

c. Check the retaining finger is set correctly

d. Make sure the hoop is tight in the hoop arms

e. Make sure you are using the correct backing paper for the fabric

f. Check the x-cable tension

g. Check the hook timing position

In the Lettering properties box under Arc settings change the angle to 180 and select Counter Clockwise

We recommend no less than 6mm to achieve legible letters using 40’s thread and 75 needles. However you can use a thinner thread and a 60’s needle to achieve smaller letters and fine detail

Open the properties box put the cursor between the letter then click on the scissor icon. A trim function will appear. You can select which letters you trim between.

To make the columns of the letters appear more bold, you need to add Pull Comp. In the properties, Pull Comp can be added as a percentage.

Stop lettering looking to thin

The shape is being distorted due to the movement in the fabric to combat this the circle needs to be made into an oval to compensate. Adding Pull Comp can also help.

Circles sewing out as ovals

Select the colour, right click to the properties box, in Colour, select the correct thread chart and shade number. Do each colour individually. When all the colours are correct save as an OFM file and every time you open the OFM in either Design Shop or OS the colours will be correct

Getting the back of the hoop set correctly and the tension of the garment is crucial to getting good quality embroidery, to tight and you can damage the garment too loose and the garment will move and flag during embroidery causing loose stitches, missed trims and needle breaks.

Cut Away backing is a woven or non-woven material that must be cut form the fabric after the embroidery is complete. This type of backing is used to support the embroidery on the fabric during and after the embroidery process. It also prevents the fabric from stretching during embroidery. Cut-away backing is a great choice for knits or loosely woven materials. These materials tend to move and stretch. The cut-away backing helps to stabilise the material and support the stitches. Cut-away backing also has a softer feel to it. If the embroidery is going to eventually be against skin directly, consider using cut-away for a more pleasant experience for the wearer. As the name implies, cut-away backing must be removed by cutting it away with scissors after the embroidery is complete. It is best to remove leaving ⅛ to ¼ of an inch edge.

Tear away backing is a non-woven material that tears easily in any direction and can be easily removed after embroidery. Tear away is extremely simple and fast to use, but the uses are limited because it offers little support to unstable fabrics. Some examples of fabrics suitable for tear away are cotton sheeting, heavy woven dress shirts, denim, terry cloth, and hats. Tear-away backing is a favourite among embroiderers because of it’s ease of removal. It is simply torn away from the garment after the embroidery is finished. It often has a feel that is similar to paper, and leftovers can be rough against skin. It is best used with stable materials, as the backing offers little support for the material.

Speciality backings such as poly mesh and nylon mesh are also options. While they may not be as stable as traditional cut-aways, they are much less visible through lighter weight garments. They also tend to be softer than other backings. Water soluble backing is also available for jobs that require that no backing be left after the completion of the embroidery. Be aware that this would require a fairly stable garment as the backing will be dissolved completely and offer no support once the garment has been laundered.

Toppings are used to keep your stitches from falling into the nap of a lofty material like terry cloth or polar fleece. It can also be used to clean up small lettering and the overall appearance of your embroidery. Most toppings are water-soluble and can be easily removed after the embroidery is complete.

If you are having trouble embroidering caps please refer to the Cap Embroidery section of the manual, it has a step by step guide on how to embroider caps from installing the cap frame to getting the digitising done correctly.

The machine has built in stitch timers to tell you when it needs your attention these consist of the below

200,000 Stitch Maintenance

2,000,000 Stitch Maintenance

10,000,000 Stitch Maintenance

30,000,000 Stitch Maintenance

Thread Feed Roller Maintenance

When these are required you will get a popup window telling you which one needs to be completed, DO NOT ignore these as it could void your machine warranty.

General maintenance of the machine keeping covers and other parts dust free is also good practice and can prevent sewing issues that build ups of such materials may cause.

Cleaning out under the needle plate is also good practice when embroidering very high lint content garments such as towels and fleeces.

If you suspect maintenance has not been done on the machines you can check this by clicking on Settings > Timers within the OS software, it will give you the list of timers and how many stitches are left, if some have minus figures they will have to be done

If you have followed all of the maintenance steps and your machine is still not performing to the required standard it may need a service. Contact our team.

This is normally a temporary error and in most cases can be fixed my pressing the emergency stop button and then releasing, it should then allow you to continue embroidery when pressing the green button. If this does not resolve the problem you may have a garment trapped that is stopping the machine from moving left to right or front to back. Remove the blockage and then follow the steps above.

65/9 - Benefit: Smallest of the more common needles. Used for fine fabrics, 60-weight thread, and delicate design details and tiny lettering.

65/9 - Drawback: Thinner needle blade is more prone to needle deflection and breakage.

70/10 - Benefit: Used for fine fabrics, design details and small letter. Good needle size for a larger majority of embroidery work.

70/10 - Drawback: Thinner needle blade is more prone to needle deflection and breakage.

75/11 - Benefit: Standard needle size and good for the majority of embroidery applications.

75/11 - Drawback: May be too large for finer detail work.

80/12 - Benefit: Largest of the more common needles. Often used caps with buckram backing or cotton duct jackets to help alleviate thread breaks.

80/12 - Drawback: Larger holes can damage finer materials and smaller design details.

90/14 - Benefit: Used with some specialty and metallic threads.

90/14 - Drawback: Larger holes can damage finer materials and smaller design details. Uncommon needle size and can be difficult to source and purchase.

100/16 - Benefit: Used with the thicker 12-weight threads like the wool-acrylic blends.

100/16 - Drawback: Larger holes can damage finer materials and smaller design details. Uncommon needle size and can be difficult to source and purchase.

You need to make sure the capping area/wiper is cleaned thoroughly. Make sure your ink is in date. Try performing a small clean and do a nozzle check, if it is no better to perform a power clean and then another nozzle check, if it is still no better we need to soak the print head in cleaning fluid overnight, Perform another nozzle check after 8 hours soaking. If it is still not resolved contact our office to arrange a site visit.

A, The maintenance tank has come to the end of its life and needs to be replaced, you can order one from our office using the part number 1017131

A, The chips on the cartridge have become too low and need to be reset using the below sequence. Turn off the printer and reboot, when the non-genuine message appears you need to click Proceed, then yes then no. the printer will boot up to the ready state which will allow you to reset the cartridges. Press the Shift key followed by the eject key (Cartridge reset key on echo 2) it should display ink level reset and the machine can be booted up correctly.

A, Wrong table movement has been detected during start-up. This error occurs if the user doesn’t press the Shift+F1 when the “load paper” message appears and instead he presses the “Home” button. It can also appear after the “Load Paper Correctly” message. In this case, the table will move suddenly to the back side of the printer where it will reach the terminal switch. If the 1226 error appears during the start-up, it could be caused from a pending print job. Remove the USB cable from the printers socket and restart the printer. Clear all pending print jobs from the computer. If the error still persists it could be caused by an over tight movement belt of the tray or tray movement problem. Please contact the service personnel

The temperature is set too high on the heat press. Make sure you test the temperature using heat test strips or a heat gun. If the temperature is too hot, it could scorch the shirts and the ink. There is too much pressure being applied to the shirt during fixing. When heat pressing your shirts, make sure you do not apply too much pressure. You should not have to put a lot of pressure to clamp the heat press down. Wrong type of paper used to protect the shirt when using a Heat Press for final fixation. Make sure the paper that is used for fixing is either a Teflon pad or Silicone treated paper. We recommend our protective sheets.

Your print head nozzles could be clogged. Run a nozzle check on a piece of clear film to see how the nozzles are firing. Do a daily maintenance. Run a head cleaning and a nozzle check in repetition to see improvement. Use a powerful cleaning and a nozzle check in repetition to see improvement. See for Print head clogging problems. On the photo image has been attached another ICC Profile from its embedded. Picking another profile with a smaller gamut, like sRGB, can limit the number of colours you can print. Picking a profile with a larger gamut space like Kodak Pro Photo RGB can lead to false expectations or “neon” like colours on output. For the RGB, CMYK, and Grey photos you need to select always “Preserve Embedded Profiles”. This ensures that Photoshop does not automatically convert or alter your files in any way. The thing to think about here is that the more you “convert” your files to other spaces the progressively more you can “degrade” the image. You have a vector image with an ICC profile or in RGB mode. When working with vector images in Corel Draw always work in CMYK mode and while exporting the file into TIFF uncheck the Apply ICC Profile option and save it as CMYK to obtain the given colours from the printer. Usually when a colour prints out wrong it is because a nozzle is clogged. If you are trying to print out an orange image but all that prints out is yellow, then that means the magenta is clogged and that pigment can’t mix to produce the orange. The biggest part of your Texjet plus is to check for, is the capping station. Make sure this ALWAYS stays clean. The print head uses this to dock when the printer is not in use to ensure the print heads do not dry out. The print head also uses this during a head cleaning. If the capping station is dirty, the printer cannot do a head cleaning properly, thus not working out the nozzle clog.

Garment was improperly fixed. Inks need to be brought up to approx. 150-180 degrees C. for 180 - 240 seconds for white and for darker garments. Too much or too little pressure applied when heat pressing. When pressing the garment in the heat press the top of the heat press should gently rest over the silicone paper. This allows the moisture of the inks to escape and properly fix. Temperature of heat press is not correct (Either to hot or too cold). Make sure the heat press is heating up evenly or correctly. (Should be 150-180 degrees C) You can test this with a touch less infrared thermometer or heat testing strips. Pre-treatment improperly applied. Pre-treatment may still be wet. Simply fix longer. Poorly pre-treated? Apply more pre-treatment on successive shirts and fix again. Too much pre-treatment. Use less pre-treatment in future. See pre-treatment on dark and coloured textiles. Type of fabric being printed For best results print onto 100% cotton! With 100% colours will look their best. For 50/50 blends of cotton and polyester ink needs needed to be fixed quickly to reduce possible bleeding. How the garment is being washed. Wash at maximum 40ºC inside out preferable with liquid detergents and delicate dryer settings. Make sure heat press is heating up evenly and correctly. Heat press should lightly press garment. Pre-treat evenly and away from printer. Fix Pre-treat properly.

The platen is in the eject position. Insert the platen into the home position. The keypad is in the menu. Exit the menu from the keypad.

The printer needs head cleaning. Do head cleaning and printing nozzle checks until a decent nozzle check is achieved. Perform a powerful cleaning circle and check if a decent nozzle check is achieved. If not, see Print head clogging problems. The dampers are faulty or exceeded their period of time. Order replacement dampers Please contact service personnel. Capping Station Clogged. The capping station may need cleaning. If the printing head did not seat properly, all of the print heads could be clogged. Please contact service personnel. Ink is not flowing from the Cartridge. The Print Head move like it is printing but no ink sprays out. This is caused by a vacuum is being created in the Cartridge. Remove the cartridges and clean it, or order a cartridge replacement. Please contact service personnel. Ribbon cable to the print head is burnt or not connected. This can happen if you replaced a print head and did not make sure the cable was attached properly. Please contact service personnel. Main Board is bad. There is a chance the mainboard in the printer is bad. The board could have a defect. Please contact service personnel.

The printer is not ready to print the job. Check at your printers display if you get the message ready. There is a connection problem. Check your USB connection. Remove the USB cable and put it again. There is a communication error between your Texjet and your computer. Restart the printer and the computer to ensure that all pending jobs have been deleted. Never use a long USB cable or switch boxes or hubs with big load of traffic. Make sure always to stop your print job in the correct way without leaving any print jobs in the spooler.

You are using a low (360 dpi) Print Mode. Use a default (720dpi) Print Mode. A 360 dpi Print Mode is the fastest but lowest quality where head clogs or misalignment will show as banding. The capping station is dirty and either not cleaning the print head completely or adding more debris to the print head and causing print head to become clogged. Thoroughly clean the capping station. It can be cleaned with swabs and cleaner. Be sure to clean the plastic around the foam pad as this is where the print head will rest when the printer is not in use. Also be sure to clean the rubber wiper blades as these wipe excess ink and debris off the print head and will accumulate said ink and debris. Ink in the nozzle opening has dried out from exposure to air for an extended period. Do head cleaning and printing nozzle checks until a decent nozzle check is achieved. Perform a powerful cleaning circle and check if a decent nozzle check is achieved. A serious or permanent clog of the head may require replacing the print head. Please contact service personnel. Perform the basic and weekly maintenance task according to the intervals given in the description Run head cleanings before printing in the morning as well as printing a nozzle checks to gauge status of print head prior to printing onto garments.

The resolution of the image is too low. Resolution at 72dpi is for viewing the image on a computer monitor only. Images which are intended for printing need to be a high resolution. If the image is not at a resolution between 120dpi and 300 dpi this causes the image not to have a good number of pixels, therefore, losing detail when the image is printed out. You can try upsampling the image to a larger resolution but the image still will be “soft” when printed. The garment is too far away from the print head, check the garment height using the auto height adjustment and reprint.

The print head was damaged by crashing into shirt plate, print bed etc. Order replacement print head. The capping station is dirty and either not cleaning the print head completely or adding more debris to the print head and causing fibres and debris to collect ink and ooze or drip ink. Thoroughly clean the capping station. Debris or shirt fibres collected on print head as well as print head carriage. Using the reflection from the print bed gently clean the bottom of the print head and remove any debris, dried ink and fibres. Too much ink in the cartridges If your cartridges are filled too much with ink, there could be too much pressure in the cartridge ink lines and the ink is forced out of the print head. The cartridges should be filled below maximum ink limit. Altitude can have an effect. High altitudes can also have an effect on the “pressure” in the system. If you are having an unusual amount of problems and are in high altitudes, don’t fill the system too full and try adjusting the height of the system. The printer is not level Not levelled printer has as result not levelled cartridges. This can also have an effect on the “pressure” in the system. Check your printer if it is well levelled. Faulty cartridges Change cartridges Please contact service personnel. The dampers are faulty or exceeded their period of time. Order replacement dampers Please contact service personnel. Always check height of print head prior to printing. Clean the capping station on a regular basis. Clean debris from print head daily. Keep your printer levelled. Don’t fill too much the ink cartridges.

There is a wrong operation in the printer startup. This error message indicates that the gear system which moves the print head during the initialization cannot function properly. If after a simple restart the problem persists, then the user must remove the gear system and resize the spring inside (for further details please contact the service personnel).

Need additional help? Contact our team.

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